![]() ![]() And you are done! Now you have the necessary measurements for the tracks, and you can buy them online or offline. After that, find the readings you need for the tracks and write them down. You can also do this by year of manufacture. Once you find your snowmobile, specify the model by its serial letters and numbers. You can do it manually or use the keyboard shortcut Ctrl+F to search for the right word on the web page. The first thing you need to do is find the one you own among all the models. It lists all Yamaha snowmobiles in alphabetical order. Knowing these four basic parameters will help you find the right track for your Yamaha snowmobile. ![]() Here you will find the following measurements: length, width, lug height, and pitch. Reinstalled them with some removable locktite and Im good to go Thanks Guys This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. ![]() Scratched my head, googled it, found this post, took side panel off, saw bolt and speed sensor gear laying there. So, what information does this fitment chart contain, and how do you use it? It is straightforward. It was great until yesterday when I got a code 42 & 84. How to Use Our Yamaha Snowmobile Track Fitment Chart That is what our fitment guide is for! Just check your model’s dimensions in our size chart and feel free to go shopping. For example, you might want to buy tracks online, but you cannot decide which model suits you best. This is especially difficult to do remotely. We know how difficult it can be to find the right tracks for a snowmobile. I know my rad is full for sure so I'm blaming it on some poor conditions and a warm day.next purchase is an auxilliary cooler from Yamaha.Welcome to our Yamaha snowmobile track size chart page. I did notice my coolant resivoir level fluxuating but never once did it boil over. I checked my sled for leaks and saw nothing, no colant anywhere. the fan kicks in around 200 degrees I think and the light comes on at 210.which I believe is just a warning and I think the engine will go into limp mode beyond those temps.although we all want to avoid that. I've checked the fan fues and it was fine, but I may replace the relay up front as I don't think the light should have come in some of the areas I was in. I think when the sled got hot the first time it never really was able to properly recover and heated up very quickly. ![]() I drove home, about 20 miles through mostly good conditions ( with the exception of one town that has ver low snow conditions ) and the light never came on again. I took teh top cowl off to let out some heat, held a chunk of icey snow up against the front heat exchanger and waited about 30 min. I finally stopped in a good area, drove the sled slowly into to some deep snow and shut it down. We had a couple of short stops and then one that was 15-20 min, started up and went across a large lake ( 3 miles stretch ) and the light came on again.we went down a trail with low snow fof about 7 miles.the light went out but came on one more time before we fueled up.I decided to turn around as we were close to the cottage.I hit conditions that ranged from good to very poor with little snow.the light came on 5 times but I just kept riding as when I got do decent snow it would go out. The next day we went riding and no issues for the first 40 miles, then hit a stretch of rd 7km long with almost zero snow.light came on and off a couple times until I got into some good snow and didn't come on again. I assumed it just got hot from the idleing and long WOT pulls across the lake with really not cool down time in between. The first time it happened we had just done several long drag races on a well snow covered lake.that kinda had me worried so I took it back to the cottage and shut it down for the night. I had the same issues this weekend with my light coming on.no codes flashed, but the sled was running hot. ![]()
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